Brooklyn Feed

Last night I went to a lecture on making fermented foods. Sandor Katz was the speaker and the evening was organized by Just Food. Sandor was a funny, intelligent and very knowledgeable man. He has been experimenting with different methods of fermenting food for about 10 years. Wild Fermentation is his book, which looks to be an interesting read.

There were samples of fermented foods to sample: sauerkraut, carrot/ginger kraut (for lack of a better term), cheese and kefir. He demonstrated how easy it is to make sauerkraut while sharing his knowledge and wit with the audience. I learned a lot about making kombucha, which I think I will try soon. To make kombucha and kimchi, you need a bit of “starter”. In the case of kefir, it is called kefir grains. In the case of kombucha, it is called the mother, the mushroom or scoby. The scoby looks like a thick, gelatinous pancake. Several people in the audience very generously brought kefir grains and a scoby. The scoby grows in layers, so you can peel off a layer and start brewing your own kombucha.

There are a lot of health benefits from fermented foods: greater digestibility, higher amounts of nutrients, etc.

Be prepared to see some posts on fermented foods coming up soon!

For Mother’s Day, Neil and Lindsay got me a ravioli attachment for my kitchenaid mixer. I have had fun making pasta and even made ravioli once. I’ve been eyeing the ravioli maker because it makes such beautiful, perfect little ravioli. I also thought it might take some time off the process.

So that evening we made wild mushroom ravioli. Neil bought a package of mixed wild mushrooms and some organic ricotta. I made the dough. The recipe is based on the recipe in The Complete Book of Pasta and Noodles.

• 2T good olive oil
• 2 cloves of garlic,  minced
• 10 ounces of mixed wild mushrooms. You can see the ones we used, but feel free to use your favorites. Remove tough stems and mince.
• 1 oz. dried porcini mushrooms, rehydrated in hot water and strained, then minced
• 1/4 c. minced parsley
• 1 c. ricotta cheese
• 1/3 c. grated parmesan cheese
• 1 large egg yolk
• salt and pepper to taste

In a medium pan, sauté garlic until golden. Add mushrooms and cook until wilted (appx. 4 minutes). Add in the porcini, parsley and seasonings. Cook until the liquid has evaporated. Place mixture in a bowl and let cool slightly. Stir in remaining ingredients. This can be done the night before.

The pasta is a basic egg pasta, which is made with 2 cups of flour and 3 large (beaten) eggs. You mix the ingredients together. I used my stand mixer, but you can do it in a food processor. Add tiny amounts of water (1 T)  until the dough forms a rough ball. Let the dough rest about 30 minutes. Roll the dough out and fill with the mushroom mixture. Cook the ravioli for 4-5 minutes, or until al dente.

I made a sauce out of sautéd garlic w/ olive oil and then a can of crushed tomatoes. Grate a nice parmesan cheese over the top and you are done. We had fun figuring out the ravioli maker. Lindsay liked playing with and eating the raw dough strips that formed between the ravioli squares.

One of the signs that summer is ending and fall has taken over, is when we have to cut down our basil. Neil always makes a huge batch of pesto that we freeze and enjoy all winter. On Sunday, we had friends over and made a batch of pesto pasta, from some of the last of the pesto. I also harvested the first greens in my garden for a salad. I planted the mache lettuce in the fall and covered the planters with a plastic tarp. There they sat all winter under snow and in the cold. It is amazing to me that anything could grow at all. But grow they did and the salad was delicious. I adore mache greens and have taken to growing them because they are so difficult to find in the store. I have found them at Trader Joes in my neighborhood.

Mache salad with pear and walnuts

Toast about 1/3 c. walnuts. Peel and thinly slice a bosc pear. Thinly slice a shallot. Use a vegetable peeler and shave about 1/3c. parmesan cheese. Add everything to the salad.

Dressing: Mix 1T dijon mustard with 2T sherry vinegar and 1/4c. olive oil. I put them into an empty jam jar and shake it until it emulsifies.

Of the many things my father loved to do, bake and listen to Mozart ranked very high. Whenever he had friends or family over to the house he loved to bake a special treat for them. He had an endless supply of  Hungarian recipes that he would try. His success rate was about 70% and when the desserts were good, they were really wonderful. The 30% failure rate usually had to do with his not thinking he had to follow a baking recipe to the letter. “Why should I put salt in something that’s sweet” was something he firmly believed. I am still scared to glaze a dessert with egg whites. My sister will immediately know why. My father must not have beaten his egg whites enough and one time his linzer torte came out with the equivalent of an egg white omelet on top of it. We had to scrape the omelet off the top and eat it because it was a crime to waste food in our house.

My father got better and better with his baking and all of his friends loved to share his creations. My father particularly loved to bake with my sister and me. It was a nice time that we could spend together.

One year ago friday my father passed away. I was thinking of a way to spend the day remembering him. I decided to listen to Mozart and make a linzer torte. Linzer was one of his favorite recipes and he seemed to have a different recipe every time he made it.

Linzer Torte Recipe

3 1/2 c. flour

1/2 c. sugar

1 generous T. baking powder

2 sticks of softened butter

1 egg yolk

1/4 c. sour cream (I felt like a bad Hungarian girl because I didn’t have any sour cream in the fridge)

1 grated lemon peel

juice from 1 lemon

jar of thick jam (raspberry, apricot or red currant)

1 1/2 c. finely chopped walnuts

1 egg white (please beat this well, or you will end up with the dreaded omelet on top)

Combine dry ingredients. Add butter. Combine and make a well in center.

Mix together the wet ingredients (except the egg white) and add to the flour mixture. Divide dough in 1/2. Press 1/2 the dough into the bottom of a 10×15 baking pan. Refrigerate both halves for an hour or overnight if desired.

Spread the jam onto the dough in the pan, making sure you don’t go all the way to the edge. It will burn if you do. I try and get as close as possible, because it can be a little bit dry otherwise.

Sprinkle the nuts over the jam.

Roll the remaining dough into ropes about 1/2″ in diameter. Think back to your preschool days when you would make snakes out of playdoh and you’ll get the idea.

I was running out of time and the dough wasn’t cooperating, so I rolled it out with a rolling pin and just cut strips. It worked really well, but next time I would try and roll the strip to make it a little rounder and more attractive. I also didn’t have time to make a nice woven lattice, but that would have been much prettier.

Once you have the top done, brush the egg white on top to make a nice glaze. Or you can skip this step if I’ve scared you.

Bake at 350F for 30-35 minutes or until the crust has a golden brown color.

This is a recipe that my father used to make for cocktail parties and was usually one of the first things to disappear. My sister and I seem to often be on the same wavelength and just as I was deciding on making these for Neil’s birthday party, she emailed me to ask for the recipe. She confirmed that hers disappeared immediately, so I thought I would post the recipe with directions on how to make them.

The first batch I rolled out to about 1/4″ thickness, which was *way* too thick. You can see from the photos below that they kind of shrink up sideways and puff upwards. The first batch were freakishly high, so I rolled the subsequent batches thinner (and poked them with fork tines).

Pogacsa (sometimes seen as Pogatcha)

Equal weights of:

flour

butter

cream cheese or feta cheese. I used feta cheese for these. I used 8oz (1/2 lb) measures of each and got a nice sized basket of crackers. Several dozen.

I love Hungarian recipes! They are usually quite simple. Okay, so I mixed the butter and cheese together until it was well-blended. Then I added the flour and mixed it with the dough-hook on my stand mixer. The dough is very thick. You can see the bits of feta in my dough.

Generously flour a surface and roll the dough out as seen below. You will fold each edge to the center until you have 4 flaps folded in. Repeat this several times and keep it well-floured. The rolling part is very important, otherwise the crackers won’t puff.

Wrap in plastic and let rest in the fridge for about 1/2 hour.

Roll out thinner than 1/4″ (I have photos of the overly puffy crackers. Don’t let this happen to you!) and cut with a small drinking glass or other cutter. I used a canapé cutter, which I think was too small. So about 1 1/2-2″ across. I also suggest poking them with the tines of a fork to keep the puff factor down.

Bake at 350 degrees F for 15-20 minutes until they are golden brown. You can put them directly on the cookie sheet. There’s enough butter in these that they won’t stick to anything!

They are best warm, but are still delicious room temp. If you have any left over you can always warm them up and have with lunch. I only had extras because I had an insane amount of food at the party where I served them.

I had a bunch of spinach in the fridge that was looking a bit limp, so I decided to make some fresh pasta. I have a pasta roller/cutter attachment for my stand mixer, but you could use manual rollers.

Fresh Spinach Pasta

1 bunch of spinach steamed, or 1 package of frozen spinach thawed. Either way, chop up the spinach finely. I tried using a food mill, which wasn’t a huge success. A blender or food processor or determined knife wielder would work great.

3 eggs

2 1/2 cups of flour

I mixed the three ingredients together and added some of the spinach liquid to make the dough form a ball. I kneaded it by machine for 2 minutes and then by hand for another 1 minute. Let the dough rest for about 15 minutes.

Roll it and cut it. Divide the dough in 4 equal parts. Flatten one piece and feed it through the widest opening on the pasta roller and then fold in half and feed through again. Repeat this several times until the dough is nice and supple. I dust it with flour so it isn’t sticky at all. This helps prevent the pasta from sticking together when you cut it. I put each piece of dough through this and then set the roller to a thinner setting. I made fettucini, so I ended up on setting 5 of my kitchen aid roller. It’s a medium setting, which gives it a nice heft when you are eating it. You don’t have to fold the dough in half for the thinner settings – that’s just on the first setting.

I’m going to get some crushed tomatoes and make a simple tomato and garlic sauce. With a little grated parmesan it should be simple and pretty. Ever notice that Italian food and the Italian flag are the same colors? Coincidence? Nah.

Just a couple of weeks ago I was commenting on how unseasonably warm it was. Since then we’ve gotten colder with most nights below freezing and the ground feels hard under my feet. Neil wrapped the chicken’s run with plastic to protect them from the cold wind and they are spending a lot of time in their little hoop house instead of the larger (un-wrapped) enclosure.

I had many green cherry tomatoes left on the vine, which I didn’t want to go to waste. I did some searching online and found a few pickle recipes. I decided to make a recipe that didn’t use water-bath canning techniques, which just means that I need to eat them up sooner.

Adapted from John Kessler’s Pickled Green Cherry Tomatoes (or tomolives)

1 quart green cherry tomatoes or quartered large green tomatoes

1/2 bunch of dill (about 6-8 stems)

1/2 c. apple cider vinegar

2 t salt

1 t freshly cracked pepper

5 large cloves of garlic, peeled and thickly sliced

Optional: 1-2 hot peppers. I chose not to put them in because of my daughter, but I think it really would help the flavor.

Pierce the tomatoes all the way through with a skewer and then place in a clean quart-sized Mason jar. Add the dill sprigs and pepper.

Bring 1 1/2 c. water to boil with the remaining ingredients. Pour liquid into the jars and cover the tomatoes. Stir the dill and garlic into the tomatoes. Cover and bring to room temperature. Let the tomatoes absorb the flavor overnight in the fridge.

What I would do differently: The original recipe just said to pierce the tomatoes in the stem end. This made 1/2 of the tomato taste pickled and 1/2 taste like a sour un-ripe tomato. After piercing them all the way through, I let them sit another day. I think the longer they sit, the better. These aren’t “officially” canned, so they will go bad. Don’t let them sit around too long. I also thought they could use a little more flavor, so will experiment with the hot pepper next time. I thought they were interesting and definitely a good use for what would have just gone to waste. There are also recipes for friend green cherry tomatoes (cut in 1/2, dip them in some sort of flour or corn meal and then fry), but it seemed as though the breading just wanted to slip off the smooth tomato skins.

Actually I’m really getting jazzed to learn about canning, pickling and fermenting, so I think I’ll try some different pickling techniques next time.

I just watched the movie Food, inc., which I recommend to everyone. If you haven’t had the time to read Omnivore’s Dilemma, it condenses the information well. If you already know about most of the issues, as I did, it renews your commitment to buying the most local and naturally raised food available.

I was talking about the movie with a friend the other day and we were specifically talking about organic and bio-dynamically raised meat. I have to admit that this is something that I haven’t incorporated into my diet as much as I could/should. We usually order Bell and Evans or Murray’s chickens from our butcher, but have had some suspicions about the veracity of the being the real deal. (other butcher’s we’ve gotten them from have had Murray’s tags on the chickens and our butcher’s doesn’t) I bought an Eberly chicken, which Neil roasted on the bbq last night. It was flavorful and delicious. They come shrink-wrapped, so it’s impossible to substitute some factory-farmed chicken for one of theirs.

My friend mentioned a local bio-dynamic angus farm called Grazin’ Angus Acres. I am lucky enough that they come to my local farmer’s market every sunday. Below I put a blurb from their website that gives some information on why to eat grass-fed beef over corn-fed beef.

Ultimately it’s healthiest for you, the animals and the planet not to eat meat, but if that isn’t an option for you, switching to grass-fed is a much healthier and humane option.

Health Benefits of Eating Grass-Fed Beef:

Safety:  Because humans are omnivores, our stomachs are highly acidic. Meanwhile, the pH of grass-fed cattle is normal.  If Grass-Fed Black Angus happen to be carrying bacteria in their normal pH environment, our highly acidic stomach bath offers real protection.  Contrast that with corn-fed cattle…  Corn turns what is typically a normal pH environment into a highly acidic one.  Consequently, corn-fed cattle often require antibiotics in the feed to keep them from being sick, which generates its own set of concerns for human health.  Further, if corn-fed cattle carry bacteria (e.g. E-Coli) that is thriving in their now acidic environment, the acids in our stomachs offer little, or no, protection against it.

Omegas: Grass-fed meat has been shown to have a 60% + increase in omega-3 content, as well as a more favorable omega-6 to omega-3 ratio.  Both fatty acids are essential and must be obtained from food.  It is important to maintain a balance of omega-3 and omega-6 in our diets, as these two substances work together to promote health.  That balance is adversely affected when cattle are fed grain. Specifically, a grass-fed diet produces a 2:1 omega 6:3 ratio.  “Why should I care?” you ask…

Consider that omega-6 promotes inflammation, blood clotting, and tumor growth while omega-3 does the opposite.  Dietary experts estimate that current eating habits in America lead to an omega 6:3 ratio of about 20:1.  Grass-fed beef is a huge step in the right direction.

ProVitamin A / beta-carotene:  Beta-carotene is a fat-soluble vitamin &  antioxidant that is a safe dietary source of vitamin A.  Vitamin A is important to normal vision, bone growth, reproduction, cell division and cell differentiation.  Grass-fed beef has a 10-fold increase in beta-carotene levels vs. grain-fed.  Taking vitamin A supplements can be dangerously toxic – but, we can eat all the beta-carotene possible and the human body will only convert the amount needed to vitamin A.

Vitamin E / alpha-tocopherol:  Vitamin E is also a fat-soluble vitamin / antioxidant that protects cells from the effects of free radicals (which have been reported to contribute to cancer and cardiovascular disease development).  Grass-fed beef increases alpha-tocopherol levels three-fold vs. grain-fed beef.

Conjugated Linoleic Acid (CLA):  Numerous health benefits have been attributed to CLA including reduced carcinogenesis, atherosclerosis, onset of diabetes and body mass.  Grass-fed cattle have been shown to produce 2 to 3 times more CLA than grain-fed cattle.

IT’S NATURAL! Nature had it right all along.  The sun’s energy grows the grass that is harvested by the cattle that are harvested by us.  Grass-fed is how it was meant to be; it’s how our human construct was prepared to capture the nutritional value of meat.  The industrial machine – feeding cattle corn in confined areas - has destroyed what nature intended.

Begin to enjoy the benefits of local Grass-Fed Black Angus today!

Back in July, my husband gave me a KitchenAid stand mixer for our 10th anniversary. I know most people get one of these when they first get married, but back then I couldn’t imagine having such a huge appliance in my tiny Brooklyn kitchen.

I really love baking, so I’ve been having fun kneading bread dough and mixing batter for cupcakes. We decided to get a pasta rolling/cutting attachment, which has turned out to be a lot of fun. There is something so satisfying about feeding dough into a machine and having flattened sheets come out. Then you feed the sheets in and long strings drip out. I pretend I’m very sophisticated making pasta, but the reality is that I’m just playing with the grown-up version of a playdoh extruder.

Although I’ve been really swamped with work for the past 2 weeks getting ready for a photo shoot, I decided that I absolutely had to make ravioli. We had some extra ground beef/ground turkey mix from dinner, so I flipped through my book The Complete Book of Pasta and Noodles for a recipe. I chose to make meat and ricotta with basil filling.

Meat and Ricotta with Basil Filling based on recipe from The Complete Book of Pasta and Noodles by The Editors of Cook’s Illustrated Magazine.

1 T olive oil (evoo)

2 minced garlic cloves

1/2 lb of ground meat. You can use different combos such as ground beef with pork. I had beef/turkey mix on hand.

1 c. ricotta

1/3 c. grated parmesan cheese

1 large egg yolk

1/2 c. minced basil leaves (I used the last basil I had growing in a pot)

1/2 t salt

freshly ground pepper

Heat the garlic in olive oil until fragrant. Add the meat and cook on med-high until the meat browns and the liquid evaporates. Break up the pieces as it cooks. Drain off the fat and let cool a bit.

In a medium mixing bowl, add the cooled meat and the rest of the ingredients. You can keep the mixture in the fridge overnight if you like.

I made a basic pasta dough of 3 large eggs mixed into 2 cups of flour. I always try and sneak some whole wheat flour into my cooking. I only added about 1/4 cup because I didn’t want the dough to get too heavy. You can  mix your dough in a food processor, by hand, or with the dough hook of your stand mixer. If the dough looks crumbly, add water 1 T at a time until it comes together. You don’t want to add too much in case it gets sticky. I made the dough before the filling because it needs to rest for about 1/2 hour before you start rolling it out.

Now comes the fun part. When the dough is ready, you roll it out in thin sheets. Drop teaspoonfuls of the filling about an 1-1 1/4″ apart on the dough, fold over and seal. It took me a couple of tries to get my technique down. At first I was getting a lot of air trapped in with the filling, but then figured out how to press it out before I completely sealed the raviolis. I trimmed them into squares using a pizza wheel. I’m pretty darn happy with how they turned out. I’m going to experiment with different fillings, because really, how can anything surrounded by dough be anything but tasty and satisfying?

I hope everybody has a wonderful and creepy Halloween!

I had snack duty today for Lindsay’s class. I couldn’t help myself….those are glow-in-the-dark pirate rings.

The cupcake recipe is from Magnolia Cupcakes. You can get the recipe at that link. It’s my go-to cupcake recipe these days. It calls for 2 sticks of butter for 24 cupcakes, but I think that can be reduced a bit. I’m going to try 1 3/4 sticks next time and then go down 1/4 stick each subsequent time I make them.

I got a 2-layer cupcake pod that carries 24 cupcakes. It looks a bit ridiculous, but it’s going to be indispensable for the next 10 years of birthday and school parties.